Discussion:
installing a 3 piece shower question
(too old to reply)
ThePainter
2009-09-04 15:58:42 UTC
Permalink
Does anyone have any tips or instructions on installing a 3 piece shower kit
so it doesn't leak?

Please no suggestions on getting a one piece because space restrictions
won't allow it.

justin
Rob
2009-09-04 16:42:13 UTC
Permalink
I never installed mine as it was in the house when I bought it but
I've had to re-caulk twice due to leaking. The reason they are so
prone to leaking is the they are not completely solid (ie the frame
moves a bit with the opening/closing of the door/etc.) The second time
I did it I bought some of this tape at home depot that is made for
tubs, etc. and I taped all joins with it and then caulked over all the
edges of that tape after that. I plan on ripping out the thing next
year, if I can get one more leak-free year I'll be happy.

For anyone that is thinking about purchasing one I would try to avoid
it. I've seen similar size 1 piece units out there, and while they are
more expensive, they'll save you a lot of headaches down the road.

Just my 2 cents.

- Rob
Post by ThePainter
Does anyone have any tips or instructions on installing a 3 piece shower kit
so it doesn't leak?
Please no suggestions on getting a one piece because space restrictions
won't allow it.
justin
stan
2009-09-04 17:20:30 UTC
Permalink
Post by ThePainter
Does anyone have any tips or instructions on installing a 3 piece shower kit
so it doesn't leak?
Please no suggestions on getting a one piece because space restrictions
won't allow it.
justin
We had to use a 3 piece fibreglass unit to replace our old tub and tub
surround (which had been replaced once before over some 40 years),
because our bathroom is in centre of house and has no window. Even at
that had to remove the door-box of the 24 inch wide door to get the
pieces into the bathroom.

We had to redesign and re frame around tub to accommodate a difference
of length and width, just regular carpentry. Also afterwards new
mouldings and repaint bathroom.

In new construction it seems usual that the bath unit is delivered and
put into the house either during construction or certainly before the
'big front window' is installed! And/or replace it by hacking a hole
in outside wall of house?

Make sure you use glue and or caulking around tub, to join and seal
between the pieces that is anti-mildew/anti fungus.

We chose a design of tub unit with a stiffer back wall provided by the
moulded shape, for better rigidity, in preference to another, slightly
cheaper IIRC that had a lot more flex or give. We also made sure that
the bottom the tub is well supported. And IIRC we added a wood support
to back wall also. Seemed to us that these units are not as rigid as
traditional light steel or other separate tubs.

Another tip might to be very careful where the taps will come through
the shower wall; we opted to stay with separate cold and hot taps.
Simpler and more reliable, in our opinion, than 'mixer' valves; and
then found that one of them impacted just where was/is a crease or
stiffening fold in the shower head end of the unit. So we had to shape
the dress-up ring that surrounds the chrome pipe coming through the
wall. If we had realised that earlier we could have moved it's
location. However the finished location is symmetrical and both
controls are equal distance away from centre-line of the tub.

BTW we took the opportunity to replace all the copper plumbing that
was in that wall which has the bath taps and the vanity basin taps.
There were no problems but after about 40 years considered it a good
idea (our water is slightly acidic; but no pinholes yet. The only
other way in to break into that wall, to the plumbing, is from other
side, from our 'big' room after moving bookshelves.

We are pleased with the unit which has now been in use for some 4 to 5
years. It is a little smaller than a tub with it's surround flat on
the wall but, only a very obese person might have any trouble with
that. Think total weight of water plus tub plus person!

As am a senior I mounted an additional stainless hand grip about 4.5
feet above the floor to the right of the tub. Using six stainless
steel screws into the substantial new framing around the opening for
the tub. It can also be used as towel holder

One member of the family insisted on a light fixture in top of the
f.glass tub unit. Although I never use it and think it is unnecessary.
It is wired through the bathroom GFI for safety and to meet code. We
also eliminated the old style 'shaver outlet' which are no longer
approved by later electrical codes. Nice to not have insurance company
question anything if one 'ever' did have a claim!

Also stuck in some wiring for speakers to be installed, but haven't
used that yet. Intention is, to cut two apertures and install two
marine grade speakers facing back across the fairly small bathroom
from above the tub unit. Give ability to listen to radio broadcast,
Internet or TV sound feeds. But one is not usually in the bathroom all
told for very long anyway.

That's all can think of at moment. Good luck with your project.
stan
2009-09-04 17:42:04 UTC
Permalink
Post by stan
Post by ThePainter
Does anyone have any tips or instructions on installing a 3 piece shower kit
so it doesn't leak?
Please no suggestions on getting a one piece because space restrictions
won't allow it.
justin
We had to use a 3 piece fibreglass unit to replace our old tub and tub
surround (which had been replaced once before over some 40 years),
because our bathroom is in centre of house and has no window. Even at
that had to remove the door-box of the 24 inch wide door to get the
pieces into the bathroom.
We had to redesign and re frame around tub to accommodate a difference
of length and width, just regular carpentry. Also afterwards new
mouldings and repaint bathroom.
In new construction it seems usual that the bath unit is delivered and
put into the house either during construction or certainly before the
'big front window' is installed! And/or replace it by hacking a hole
in outside wall of house?
Make sure you use glue and or caulking around tub, to join and seal
between the pieces that is anti-mildew/anti fungus.
We chose a design of tub unit with a stiffer back wall provided by the
moulded shape, for better rigidity, in preference to another, slightly
cheaper IIRC that had a lot more flex or give. We also made sure that
the bottom the tub is well supported. And IIRC we added a wood support
to back wall also. Seemed to us that these units are not as rigid as
traditional light steel or other separate tubs.
Another tip might to be very careful where the taps will come through
the shower wall; we opted to stay with separate cold and hot taps.
Simpler and more reliable, in our opinion, than 'mixer' valves; and
then found that one of them impacted just where was/is a crease or
stiffening fold in the shower head end of the unit. So we had to shape
the dress-up ring that surrounds the chrome pipe coming through the
wall. If we had realised that earlier we could have moved it's
location. However the finished  location is symmetrical and both
controls are equal distance away from centre-line of the tub.
BTW we took the opportunity to replace all the copper plumbing that
was in that wall which has the bath taps and the vanity basin taps.
There were no problems but after about 40 years considered it a good
idea (our water is slightly acidic; but no pinholes yet. The only
other way in to break into that wall, to the plumbing, is from other
side, from our 'big' room after moving bookshelves.
We are pleased with the unit which has now been in use for some 4 to 5
years. It is a little smaller than a tub with it's surround flat on
the wall but, only a very obese person might have any trouble with
that. Think total weight of water plus tub plus person!
As am a senior I mounted an additional stainless hand grip about 4.5
feet above the floor to the right of the tub. Using six stainless
steel screws into the substantial new framing around the opening for
the tub. It can also be used as towel holder
One member of the family insisted on a light fixture in top of the
f.glass tub unit. Although I never use it and think it is unnecessary.
It is wired through the bathroom GFI for safety and to meet code. We
also eliminated the old style 'shaver outlet' which are no longer
approved by later electrical codes. Nice to not have insurance company
question anything if one 'ever' did have a claim!
Also stuck in some wiring for speakers to be installed, but haven't
used that yet. Intention is, to cut two apertures and install two
marine grade speakers facing back across the fairly small bathroom
from above the tub unit. Give ability to listen to radio broadcast,
Internet or TV sound feeds. But one is not usually in the bathroom all
told for very long anyway.
That's all can think of at moment. Good luck with your project.
Rob wrote.
"I never installed mine as it was in the house when I bought it but
I've had to re-caulk twice due to leaking. The reason they are so
prone to leaking is the they are not completely solid (ie the frame
moves a bit with the opening/closing of the door/etc.) The second
time
I did it I bought some of this tape at home depot that is made for
tubs, etc. and I taped all joins with it and then caulked over all
the
edges of that tape after that. I plan on ripping out the thing next
year, if I can get one more leak-free year I'll be happy.

For anyone that is thinking about purchasing one I would try to avoid
it. I've seen similar size 1 piece units out there, and while they
are
more expensive, they'll save you a lot of headaches down the road."

Interesting about stressing rigidity and other measures to support and
reduce flexing!!!! We have had no leaks at all.

And oh yes we have never used shower doors they seem to get very
'scummy' and a bu**er to clean.We have two shower curtains, an inner
plastic one (with a spare) and an outer more decorative one. We bought
two plastic and every couple of months the plastic one goes in the
washer, with towels, seems best and the spare plastic one installed
IIRC they were either $4.75 or $2.75 each). Maybe once or twice a year
the outer one is also washed.

Since our bathroom is within the house it is essential to have a good
working bathroom fan (maintain it every year or two by oiling the
bearings) and to run it for good while after each bath/shower use.
Especially if one leaves warm water in the tub to cool down to assist
warming the house!

As the OP mentioned a one piece is almost impossible to place in an
already built house unless prepared to chop hole in an outside wall
and possibly also an inside wall to get it into the bathroom itself.
At one point we were entertaining the idea of an added en-suite
bathroom. One advantage of the idea was that we could have built the
addition on end of house adjacent to master bedroom and could have
made provision for it to be replaced somewhat more easily he some 20
to 30 years in future when needed!

But then we humans rarely look ahead! One can recall some 50+ years
ago when St. John's was rejoicing about the 'New water line' from
Windsor Lake!

Today after numerous breaks and leaks during last few years along
Higgin's Line and Portugal Cove Rd. it is agonizing about a 70 year
old deteriorating installation that needs/needed major replacement!
Geez didn't we plan for maintenance and replacement???????? Aspiring
municipal politicians please take note!
stan
2009-09-04 17:59:13 UTC
Permalink
Post by stan
Post by stan
Post by ThePainter
Does anyone have any tips or instructions on installing a 3 piece shower kit
so it doesn't leak?
Please no suggestions on getting a one piece because space restrictions
won't allow it.
justin
We had to use a 3 piece fibreglass unit to replace our old tub and tub
surround (which had been replaced once before over some 40 years),
because our bathroom is in centre of house and has no window. Even at
that had to remove the door-box of the 24 inch wide door to get the
pieces into the bathroom.
We had to redesign and re frame around tub to accommodate a difference
of length and width, just regular carpentry. Also afterwards new
mouldings and repaint bathroom.
In new construction it seems usual that the bath unit is delivered and
put into the house either during construction or certainly before the
'big front window' is installed! And/or replace it by hacking a hole
in outside wall of house?
Make sure you use glue and or caulking around tub, to join and seal
between the pieces that is anti-mildew/anti fungus.
We chose a design of tub unit with a stiffer back wall provided by the
moulded shape, for better rigidity, in preference to another, slightly
cheaper IIRC that had a lot more flex or give. We also made sure that
the bottom the tub is well supported. And IIRC we added a wood support
to back wall also. Seemed to us that these units are not as rigid as
traditional light steel or other separate tubs.
Another tip might to be very careful where the taps will come through
the shower wall; we opted to stay with separate cold and hot taps.
Simpler and more reliable, in our opinion, than 'mixer' valves; and
then found that one of them impacted just where was/is a crease or
stiffening fold in the shower head end of the unit. So we had to shape
the dress-up ring that surrounds the chrome pipe coming through the
wall. If we had realised that earlier we could have moved it's
location. However the finished  location is symmetrical and both
controls are equal distance away from centre-line of the tub.
BTW we took the opportunity to replace all the copper plumbing that
was in that wall which has the bath taps and the vanity basin taps.
There were no problems but after about 40 years considered it a good
idea (our water is slightly acidic; but no pinholes yet. The only
other way in to break into that wall, to the plumbing, is from other
side, from our 'big' room after moving bookshelves.
We are pleased with the unit which has now been in use for some 4 to 5
years. It is a little smaller than a tub with it's surround flat on
the wall but, only a very obese person might have any trouble with
that. Think total weight of water plus tub plus person!
As am a senior I mounted an additional stainless hand grip about 4.5
feet above the floor to the right of the tub. Using six stainless
steel screws into the substantial new framing around the opening for
the tub. It can also be used as towel holder
One member of the family insisted on a light fixture in top of the
f.glass tub unit. Although I never use it and think it is unnecessary.
It is wired through the bathroom GFI for safety and to meet code. We
also eliminated the old style 'shaver outlet' which are no longer
approved by later electrical codes. Nice to not have insurance company
question anything if one 'ever' did have a claim!
Also stuck in some wiring for speakers to be installed, but haven't
used that yet. Intention is, to cut two apertures and install two
marine grade speakers facing back across the fairly small bathroom
from above the tub unit. Give ability to listen to radio broadcast,
Internet or TV sound feeds. But one is not usually in the bathroom all
told for very long anyway.
That's all can think of at moment. Good luck with your project.
Rob wrote.
"I never installed mine as it was in the house when I bought it but
I've had to re-caulk twice due to leaking. The reason they are so
prone to leaking is the they are not completely solid  (ie the frame
moves a bit with the opening/closing of the door/etc.) The second
time
I did it I bought some of this tape at home depot that is made for
tubs, etc. and I taped all joins with it and then caulked over all
the
edges of that tape after that. I plan on ripping out the thing next
year, if I can get one more leak-free year I'll be happy.
For anyone that is thinking about purchasing one I would try to avoid
it. I've seen similar size 1 piece units out there, and while they
are
more expensive, they'll save you a lot of headaches down the road."
Interesting about stressing rigidity and other measures to support and
reduce flexing!!!! We have had no leaks at all.
And oh yes we have never used shower doors they seem to get very
'scummy' and a bu**er to clean.We have two shower curtains, an inner
plastic one (with a spare) and an outer more decorative one. We bought
two plastic and every couple of months the plastic one goes in the
washer, with towels, seems best and the spare plastic one installed
IIRC they were either $4.75 or $2.75 each). Maybe once or twice a year
the outer one is also washed.
Since our bathroom is within the house it is essential to have a good
working bathroom fan (maintain it every year or two by oiling the
bearings) and to run it for good while after each bath/shower use.
Especially if one leaves warm water in the tub to cool down to assist
warming the house!
As the OP mentioned a one piece is almost impossible to place in an
already built house unless prepared to chop hole in an outside wall
and possibly also an inside wall to get it into the bathroom itself.
At one point we were entertaining the idea of an added en-suite
bathroom. One advantage of the idea was that we could have built the
addition on end of house adjacent to master bedroom and could have
made provision for it to be replaced somewhat more easily he some 20
to 30 years in future when needed!
But then we humans rarely look ahead! One can recall some 50+ years
ago when St. John's was rejoicing about the 'New water line' from
Windsor Lake!
Today after numerous breaks and leaks during last few years along
Higgin's Line and Portugal Cove Rd. it is agonizing about a 70 year
old deteriorating installation that needs/needed major replacement!
Geez didn't we plan for maintenance and replacement????????  Aspiring
municipal politicians please take note!- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
PS. Just before somebody starts a 15 posting debate about who said
what and did or did not support their 'facts'!

Recollection is that some 53 years ago the 'new water line from
Windsor Lake was some 12 to 15 years new? Harry Mews was mayor IIRC?
We had one TV channel, CJON Ch 6, and Don Jamieson was the announcer.
The last thing on TV every night was 'The Wrestling'!

So estimating that the now troublesome water line is some 13 + 53 = 66
years old; i.e. approaching 70!

Corrections welcomed.
Marie
2009-09-04 18:26:40 UTC
Permalink
We live in a town house and the only thing we could get into the house was a
3-piece tub unit. We had to take out the bathroom wall at the top of the
stairs to get it into the bathroom. That was just basic carpenter work to
replace. We had a plumber install it for us and so far we have not had any
problems with it. It's way ahead of what we had there before. We actually
toyed with the idea of taking out the outside wall and getting a one-piece
unit but that really wasn't feasible.

We did however go with the more expensive model as we found the cheaper one
was a lot less rigid and didn't seem to be the same quality at all. We had
to fork over $500-600 more for the better unit. Hopefully, though, we won't
have to replace it in our lifetime.

Good luck with your bathroom remodeling.

M
Post by stan
Post by stan
Post by ThePainter
Does anyone have any tips or instructions on installing a 3 piece shower kit
so it doesn't leak?
Please no suggestions on getting a one piece because space
restrictions
won't allow it.
justin
We had to use a 3 piece fibreglass unit to replace our old tub and tub
surround (which had been replaced once before over some 40 years),
because our bathroom is in centre of house and has no window. Even at
that had to remove the door-box of the 24 inch wide door to get the
pieces into the bathroom.
We had to redesign and re frame around tub to accommodate a difference
of length and width, just regular carpentry. Also afterwards new
mouldings and repaint bathroom.
In new construction it seems usual that the bath unit is delivered and
put into the house either during construction or certainly before the
'big front window' is installed! And/or replace it by hacking a hole
in outside wall of house?
Make sure you use glue and or caulking around tub, to join and seal
between the pieces that is anti-mildew/anti fungus.
We chose a design of tub unit with a stiffer back wall provided by the
moulded shape, for better rigidity, in preference to another, slightly
cheaper IIRC that had a lot more flex or give. We also made sure that
the bottom the tub is well supported. And IIRC we added a wood support
to back wall also. Seemed to us that these units are not as rigid as
traditional light steel or other separate tubs.
Another tip might to be very careful where the taps will come through
the shower wall; we opted to stay with separate cold and hot taps.
Simpler and more reliable, in our opinion, than 'mixer' valves; and
then found that one of them impacted just where was/is a crease or
stiffening fold in the shower head end of the unit. So we had to shape
the dress-up ring that surrounds the chrome pipe coming through the
wall. If we had realised that earlier we could have moved it's
location. However the finished location is symmetrical and both
controls are equal distance away from centre-line of the tub.
BTW we took the opportunity to replace all the copper plumbing that
was in that wall which has the bath taps and the vanity basin taps.
There were no problems but after about 40 years considered it a good
idea (our water is slightly acidic; but no pinholes yet. The only
other way in to break into that wall, to the plumbing, is from other
side, from our 'big' room after moving bookshelves.
We are pleased with the unit which has now been in use for some 4 to 5
years. It is a little smaller than a tub with it's surround flat on
the wall but, only a very obese person might have any trouble with
that. Think total weight of water plus tub plus person!
As am a senior I mounted an additional stainless hand grip about 4.5
feet above the floor to the right of the tub. Using six stainless
steel screws into the substantial new framing around the opening for
the tub. It can also be used as towel holder
One member of the family insisted on a light fixture in top of the
f.glass tub unit. Although I never use it and think it is unnecessary.
It is wired through the bathroom GFI for safety and to meet code. We
also eliminated the old style 'shaver outlet' which are no longer
approved by later electrical codes. Nice to not have insurance company
question anything if one 'ever' did have a claim!
Also stuck in some wiring for speakers to be installed, but haven't
used that yet. Intention is, to cut two apertures and install two
marine grade speakers facing back across the fairly small bathroom
from above the tub unit. Give ability to listen to radio broadcast,
Internet or TV sound feeds. But one is not usually in the bathroom all
told for very long anyway.
That's all can think of at moment. Good luck with your project.
Rob wrote.
"I never installed mine as it was in the house when I bought it but
I've had to re-caulk twice due to leaking. The reason they are so
prone to leaking is the they are not completely solid (ie the frame
moves a bit with the opening/closing of the door/etc.) The second
time
I did it I bought some of this tape at home depot that is made for
tubs, etc. and I taped all joins with it and then caulked over all
the
edges of that tape after that. I plan on ripping out the thing next
year, if I can get one more leak-free year I'll be happy.
For anyone that is thinking about purchasing one I would try to avoid
it. I've seen similar size 1 piece units out there, and while they
are
more expensive, they'll save you a lot of headaches down the road."
Interesting about stressing rigidity and other measures to support and
reduce flexing!!!! We have had no leaks at all.
And oh yes we have never used shower doors they seem to get very
'scummy' and a bu**er to clean.We have two shower curtains, an inner
plastic one (with a spare) and an outer more decorative one. We bought
two plastic and every couple of months the plastic one goes in the
washer, with towels, seems best and the spare plastic one installed
IIRC they were either $4.75 or $2.75 each). Maybe once or twice a year
the outer one is also washed.
Since our bathroom is within the house it is essential to have a good
working bathroom fan (maintain it every year or two by oiling the
bearings) and to run it for good while after each bath/shower use.
Especially if one leaves warm water in the tub to cool down to assist
warming the house!
As the OP mentioned a one piece is almost impossible to place in an
already built house unless prepared to chop hole in an outside wall
and possibly also an inside wall to get it into the bathroom itself.
At one point we were entertaining the idea of an added en-suite
bathroom. One advantage of the idea was that we could have built the
addition on end of house adjacent to master bedroom and could have
made provision for it to be replaced somewhat more easily he some 20
to 30 years in future when needed!
But then we humans rarely look ahead! One can recall some 50+ years
ago when St. John's was rejoicing about the 'New water line' from
Windsor Lake!
Today after numerous breaks and leaks during last few years along
Higgin's Line and Portugal Cove Rd. it is agonizing about a 70 year
old deteriorating installation that needs/needed major replacement!
Geez didn't we plan for maintenance and replacement???????? Aspiring
municipal politicians please take note!- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
PS. Just before somebody starts a 15 posting debate about who said
what and did or did not support their 'facts'!

Recollection is that some 53 years ago the 'new water line from
Windsor Lake was some 12 to 15 years new? Harry Mews was mayor IIRC?
We had one TV channel, CJON Ch 6, and Don Jamieson was the announcer.
The last thing on TV every night was 'The Wrestling'!

So estimating that the now troublesome water line is some 13 + 53 = 66
years old; i.e. approaching 70!

Corrections welcomed.
Thomas Clancy
2009-09-04 19:36:48 UTC
Permalink
On Fri, 4 Sep 2009 10:42:04 -0700 (PDT), stan
Post by Rob
For anyone that is thinking about purchasing one I would try to avoid
it. I've seen similar size 1 piece units out there, and while they
are
more expensive, they'll save you a lot of headaches down the road."
If you're talking about a fiberglass tub/shower all in one (the kind
with the "roof" or sides), that's not necessarily true. If you have a
plumbing issue, good luck. $$$$$$$ :o)

If you're talking about a normal surround kit that you attach to the
wall, absolutely, get a 1 piece. Anything other than that and you're
asking for trouble, and it's going to look horrible in a few years
if/when the caulking changes color :o)


Regards,
Thomas

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p***@gmail.com
2019-03-16 15:21:34 UTC
Permalink
Did you seriously just use two asterisks to avoid using the word bummer? What a prude.
Thomas Clancy
2009-09-04 19:32:55 UTC
Permalink
Hi!

I did just that about 6 years ago. I replaced my tub with a jacuzzi
tub and a corner (3 piece) shower. If you follow the instructions
exactly, you will no issues. Do not.. I repeat, do not caulk the
"inside" of the shower (the area you stand in). All caulking is done
at the back of the shower: center join - there's a channel that should
be obvious, as well as at the back of the base. The only other place
you caulk is along the "outside" of the base (front) as well as
"center line" of the shower door attachments (sides and bottom). I
know it doesn't seem logical to not caulk the inside, but trust me -
don't do it. The logic behind this is you've sealed everything from
outside (easy to access) and that water can then flow back "into" the
shower instead of working its way out onto your floor. If you ignore
this and seal the inside, the water that would normally flow back (and
it will regardless of the amount of inner caulking you would attempt
to use) will end up on your floor.

About the only real tip aside from the above and not cheaping out on a
good caulking material, is to use a good measure of caulking when
sealing the rear center line, as well as along the base's (where the
walls rest on the base) center line/channel.

I've been leak free 6 years, and believe me, my shower does double
duty :o)

If you have any questions, feel free to email. If you're in town, I
can probably pop by to explain if you'd like.

On Fri, 4 Sep 2009 13:28:42 -0230, "ThePainter"
Post by ThePainter
Does anyone have any tips or instructions on installing a 3 piece shower kit
so it doesn't leak?
Please no suggestions on getting a one piece because space restrictions
won't allow it.
justin
Regards,
Thomas

WARNING! EMAIL S~P~A~M~B~L~O~C~K~E~R PROTECTION WARNING!
Substitute 'HOTMAIL' for 'SPAMORAMA' when responding VIA email
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